Getting stuck in the middle of a muddy trail because you need a can am commander drive belt replacement is basically a rite of passage for side-by-side owners. If you've ever smelled that unmistakable scent of burnt rubber or noticed your machine hesitating when you hammer the throttle, you know exactly what I'm talking about. It's one of those maintenance tasks that seems intimidating the first time you do it, but once you get the hang of it, you'll realize it's just part of the game when you own a high-performance UTV.
The CVT system in a Can-Am Commander is a workhorse, but it's also the weak link if you're pushing the machine hard. Whether you're hauling wood on the farm or ripping through sand dunes, that belt is taking a beating. In this article, we're going to walk through how to handle a replacement without losing your mind—or your knuckles.
Knowing when it's time to swap
Before we get into the nuts and bolts, let's talk about why you're even doing this. Usually, the belt tells you it's dying before it actually snaps. You'll feel a jerkiness when taking off from a stop, or maybe you'll hear a weird "chirping" sound coming from the clutch cover. If you've ever glazed a belt by trying to pull a heavy load in high gear when you should've been in low, you'll feel a vibration that just won't go away.
Of course, sometimes the belt just goes bang. When that happens, you're dead in the water. That's why most seasoned riders carry a spare belt and the necessary tools under the seat or in a storage box. Doing a can am commander drive belt replacement in your garage is one thing; doing it on a tilted trail in the rain is a whole other story.
Tools you'll actually need
You don't need a full mechanic's shop for this, but having the right stuff makes it way easier. Here's the short list of what should be on your workbench:
- A socket set (specifically a 10mm for the cover bolts).
- The clutch spreader tool (that little gold bolt that usually comes in your factory tool kit).
- A can of compressed air or a shop vac.
- Some brake cleaner and a clean rag.
- A bit of Scotch-Brite (the green abrasive pads).
- Your new belt (obviously).
If you've lost your factory spreader tool, don't panic. You can usually find a replacement online or even use a standard M8 x 1.25 bolt in a pinch, though the official tool is always better because it's designed not to mar the threads.
Getting into the belly of the beast
First things first, you've got to get to the clutch cover. On the Can-Am Commander, this is usually located on the driver's side. Depending on your specific year and model, you might have to pop off a side panel or even remove a seat to get clear access. It's a bit of a tight squeeze, but it's manageable.
Once you're looking at that black plastic cover, you'll see a ring of 10mm bolts holding it on. Take your time here. These bolts are notorious for getting stuck if they're caked in mud. Also, be careful not to drop them into the skid plate abyss—finding a dropped bolt in a UTV frame is like looking for a needle in a haystack.
When the bolts are out, wiggle the cover off. If it's stuck, give it a gentle tap with a rubber mallet. When you pull it away, pay attention to the rubber gasket. If it's pinched or dry-rotted, you'll want to replace that too, otherwise, water is going to get into your clutches next time you hit a puddle.
Removing the old belt
Now you're looking at the primary and secondary clutches. To get the old belt off, you need to open up the secondary clutch (the one toward the rear). This is where your spreader tool comes in.
There's a threaded hole in the secondary clutch. Screw your spreader tool into that hole slowly. As you tighten it, the sheaves will start to pull apart, creating slack in the belt. Once there's enough slack, you can simply roll the belt off the top of the sheaves. If the belt exploded, make sure you pick out every single little thread and piece of rubber. If you leave debris in there, it'll ruin your new belt in record time.
Don't skip the cleaning
This is the part most people skip because they're in a hurry, but it's probably the most important part of a can am commander drive belt replacement. Take your Scotch-Brite pad and lightly scuff the faces of the clutches where the belt sits. You're looking to remove any "glaze" or rubber deposits. You want a nice, clean aluminum surface.
After scuffing them, hit the whole area with some brake cleaner and wipe it down. Then, use your compressed air to blow out all the dust from inside the clutches. You'll be amazed at how much black soot comes flying out of there. Wear a mask if you don't want to be sneezing CVT dust for the next three days.
Installing the new belt
When you're ready to put the new belt on, check the direction. Most belts have arrows on them indicating the rotation direction. Generally, you want the text on the belt to be readable from left to right when you're looking at it.
Slide the belt over the primary (front) clutch first, then work it over the secondary. Since you still have the spreader tool in, it should slip right on. Once it's seated, start backing out the spreader tool. As the sheaves close back together, the belt will tighten up. I like to rotate the clutches by hand a few times just to make sure the belt is sitting where it's supposed to be before I put the cover back on.
The break-in period is real
I know, you just spent an hour sweating over your machine and you want to go out and rip a wheelie. Don't do it. A new belt needs a "heat cycle" to live a long and happy life.
For the first 20 to 30 miles, take it easy. Don't go full throttle, and try to vary your speeds. This allows the belt to seat perfectly into the clutches and prevents it from getting "hot spots." If you just go out and pin it right away, you risk glazing the belt immediately, and you'll be doing another can am commander drive belt replacement much sooner than you'd like.
How to make your belt last longer
Nobody wants to change their belt every month. The best way to save your belt is to use Low Gear more often. If you're going under 15 mph, or if you're climbing a hill, or if you're in thick mud—use low. High gear is for the flat stretches where you're moving fast. Using high gear at low speeds creates massive amounts of heat, and heat is what kills belts.
Also, keep your CVT intake clear. If you've added aftermarket mods or if you ride in tall grass, make sure the air vents for the clutch housing aren't blocked. Airflow is the only thing keeping those clutches cool.
Wrapping it up
Doing a can am commander drive belt replacement is one of those skills that every UTV owner should have. It saves you a ton of money in shop labor, and more importantly, it gives you the confidence to know you can fix your machine if things go south in the woods.
Take your time, keep things clean, and don't forget that break-in period. Your Commander (and your wallet) will thank you for it. Now get that cover back on, torque those bolts down, and get back out there—just maybe a little more carefully this time!